Sheer window and bed curtains

This project was to create the window and bed curtains for a soft, "marshmallow" guest room.  All of the treatments were to be hung from ceiling height (10') and made with white voile - nearly 50 yards!

There were two tall windows, with the sheers to be hung just under the crown molding and puddling slightly below.  There was to be a panel on each side of both windows.  The queen size bed was to be surrounded with sheers hung from the ceiling, two panels of sheers per side.  That is a total of 12 panels of sheers!  Yikes!  

The window panels were hung slightly lower that ceiling height, but needed to puddle.  The bed panels were to go from ceiling to floor.  The window panels were going to be pinch pleated with a 5" header, using tabs behind to go over the rod; the bed panels were going to have a sleeve go over the rod, with a ruffle at the top. The first step was to cut all of the panels, the window panels just a couple of inches shorter than the bed panels.  I marked and numbered each piece with a bit of masking tape.  One complication was I lacked enough fabric to cut two of the panels to their full length.  I ended up suggesting these could be the bed header panels, where the pieced part would not show.  My client agreed and we purchased some additional fabric.  I cut the pieces so that both header panels would be pieced at the same level - which was about 24" above the floor, then pieced the two panels, using a French seam.  This saved several yards of fabric!

The hems came next.  All were 6" double hems.  Since voile is so slippery slidey, I started with just pinning at the 12" mark.  Then I folded hem up where the pins were and ironed that edge.  Then I folded the 12" inside the fold all the way to the bottom fold and pinned and ironed.  Much easier said than done with this loosey goosey fabric!  Final step was stitching along the very edge of the hem fold all the way across.  By very edge, I mean ideally within one thread of the fold!  

After the hems, I cut the selvages off the sides (because they pinched slightly and would show through the hem) and turned in a double 2" hem.  This was done just like the bottom hem, but I didn't pin first, just turned 4" over and pressed.  In turn, I folded the edge inside, pinned, pressed, and stitched to give a 2" wide side hem.






With all hems and sides done, I addressed the window panel headers.  They were to be pinch pleated, and be able to open and close, with a tab on the back so that the panels hid the rod.   Since these were to have a very soft feel, I decided not to use a header tape or buckram.  I simply folded the header over 6", folding the last inch under again and sewing close to the edge.

After marking the gaps and pleats and sewing the pleat seams, I took an extra step to give the pleats support, as well as a place to sew the tabs on:   I folded the header around the each pleat seam and stitched about 3/16" from the edge.  This created a ridge behind each pleat.

To finish the pleats, I pinched each one and tacked at the top and bottom.  Then I sewed a strip of selvage I had cut off the sides to the ridge behind each pleat (shown to left and below).

Now to the bed curtains.  Originally they were to be pleated and hung from rings, but the new plan called for them to be threaded over the rods with a sleeve, with a 3" ruffle on top.  This not only softened the look, but saved purchasing nearly 100 rings!  This required a little extra length, so I purchased a little more fabric and pieced extra length to the tops of the panels so that the piecing seam was along the top fold, where it wouldn't show.  The two panels at the head of the bed were going to stay closed, but the other sides needed to open and close.  When the panels were closed, it was desired the panels retain even gathering.  I solved this by making a tack at the top of the sleeve every few inches, just like the spacing would be if they were pinch pleated. Pictures above show the opened and closed look.

The installation was somewhat time-consuming, since it involved ironing each panel before hanging.  And let's not forget dealing with the ceiling rods over the bed!   Let me tell you, threading on panels, cutting gaps for the brackets, tacking the corner edges together, and doing the other arranging needed was not easy with a 10' ceiling!  I am tall, but still had to stand on the 2nd step from the top of this ladder.  Fortunately, I made it through without any injuries!  And so did the chandelier!










   

Here are the finished window sheers.  Very full, with two panels per window.  The panels open and close with 60" clear plastic batons attached to the inside tab of each panel.  Works very well.

Why is one picture mellow yellow and the other white?  Ask my phone!  Maybe I'll bring my nice camera next time.









I'll include several pictures of the bed curtains, since the room is a little small for a comprehensive picture of the entire thing.  The first pictures are before the bed was put inside.

 A good picture of the ceiling rods.

 A pretty chandelier in the middle.

As close as I could get to floor-to-ceiling shots.

The bed is purchased and put inside.  Lovely!  At some point, the client plans to complete the look with a headboard.

                     

Bedroom Sheers

This project is to make sheers and drapes for 4 bedroom windows.  In this post, I describe the sheers project.  The sheers are for tall windows in a room with a 10' ceiling.  We decided on a length of 109".  The sheers will be stationary (non-moving), with one width of fabric evenly pinch-pleated across the width of the window. 

    

 The materials included 14 yards of sheer voile fabric, about 13 yards of sheer header tape, and thread.





After measuring and measuring again, I tore the fabric for each panel about a half-inch above the desired cut and then cut a clean edge with my rotary cutter.  Before doing anything else, I also cut off the selvages to prevent that slight bit of puckering you get with sheer voile.

 The hem was to be a double 6" hem.  Voile is famously slippery and hard to work with.  To help make the hem accurate, I placed some masking tape at the 6" mark and used it as a guide to turn up the hem twice, pin and iron in place.

To secure the hem, I stitched along the top edge  very close to the fold.  It needed to be pressed one more time, stretching and holding the stitching area each time until it was cool.  I think of voile kind of like hair - after heating (with the iron) you need to hold it in place until it cools so it will retain its shape.

Below - pinning the hem, the stitched hem being pressed.

 

To attach the header, I sewed the edge of the header to the wrong side of the voile, one half inch below the top of the panel, as shown below.  Then folded the header over twice and pinned it to the panel, pressed, stitched, and pressed again.

 

 The side hems were a double 1.5" fold, pinned, stitched, and pressed.

  
 
The pleats were done in the usual way, marked, folded and stitched, then pinched and tacked at the bottom.  I felt I needed an extra tack at the top (see above) to keep the pleats from popping out.

 Here are the finished, installed sheers, hanging on sheer rods with standard drapery pins.  They are hanging with drapes that had just been installed but not yet trained!  My next blog post describes the drapes.