Living Room/Dining Room Drapes

In this post, I describe the drapes that go with the valences in the previous post.  Same fabric, a beige stripe damask, and accent fabric, a beige satin.  These drapes are 109" long, with the accent fabric forming a band along the center edge.  We chose goblet pleats to give an elegant look, wrapping the bottom of each pleat with the accent fabric.  The drapes are lined and interlined, but do not have blackout lining as the valences did.  There are two 41" windows; we will use one width per panel, 4 panels total.  

 Ok, I'll apologize up front for not having pictures of all the steps - I'll just do my best to describe them!  Starting here--- After cutting the 4 panel lengths out of the main fabric, I cut one length of the accent fabric and divided it into four long strips of about 12" (having used some of the width previously for piping on the valences).  I attached a strip of accent fabric to one edge of each panel.  I had to keep in mind that there are two "left" panels and two "right" panels!  Oh boy, would that have been a disaster to have made four identical panels!!  You can see in the picture to the left the accent band at the far end.

The next step is to turn up a double 6" hem, press, pin, and hand sew.  It wasn't too bad - it's easy to pick up a single thread with this fabric.

After preparing the main panels, I cut and prepared the lining and interlining.  With the band added to the main fabric width, I needed to piece the interlining as well, since I wanted the interlining to back the main fabric completely.  So I cut another length of interlining and divided it into four strips.  I attached the strip and serged it to prevent fraying. On the left is the pieced interlining, showing the 2" double hem pinned, ironed, and ready to sew.

I did not piece the lining, but planned to use a single width.  The band will wrap around to form a nice edge in the center of the window.  In it, as well, I made a 2" double hem.








I wasn't taking any chances the two linings would wrinkle or have pulls, so I laid the pieces down and smoothed it out until it was perfectly positioned.  The lining fabric is face up on the bottom layer, the main fabric is face down on top of it, and the interlining is on the top (no right or wrong side).  The interlining had been pieced, but not made the exact width of the pieced main fabric.  Instead, I lined up the piecing seams for the main fabric and interlining.  I trimmed the excess interlining on the non-banded side, as shown.  There is still some excess on the other side, but I will deal with it later.

To sew the side hems, I decided to match the edges on the banded side, shown here.  I pinned, sewed, and pressed.  You can see here the bottom edge of the panel with the different layers - face-up lining, face down main fabric, and interlining.  The hems are staggered so the lining is above the main fabric and the interlining will be hidden above that.

I serged the side hem seam, trimming the excess interlining at the same time.








The other side hem needed to be sewn so it matched the other side hem exactly.  I kept the panel wrong side out and laid it on the work table with the un-sewn edges of the other side seam lined up.  I worked to smooth all the layers and make sure the band wasn't pulled in any way.  What will be the final band edge for the center of the window has not been pressed - I will do that after this.  So, I pin the other side seam, stitch, and serge.

With both side seams stitched, I turn the panel right side out and determine the exact with of the band to show on the front and press a crease there, then, smoothing all the layers just right, press the other side, which will indent about 2", as shown on the left.

Side seams and hems done, it is time to finish the top of the panels.  Here I am measuring the exact length from the bottom of the hem to the top edge and folding over.  I also tuck in an additional inch or two to make the header section 5" wide, and pin and press.  I will hand sew the bottom edge to the lining.  I am not using any header tape because the fabric is thick enough already here, and leaving out the header will allow the drapes to softly open.  (I will use a stiffener in the goblet pleats as you will see.)





With the header ready for pleating, I put down a piece of masking tape on my work surface and mark pleat and gap spacing.  I will reuse these markings for all four panels.  To mark the panels, I lay the panel down, matching the ends with end markings, and pin every pleat beginning and end.






I stitch each pleat 5" down plus a little more to get just past the folded header edge.








Here are the sewn pleats  I pressed the seam areas but not the folded edge of the pleats, because goblet pleats are rounded at the top.  They look pressed in this picture, but that is just because they were folded there for sewing.













I experimented with different ways of attaching the "choker" to the bottom of the goblets.  This picture shows pre-stitching the choker to one side of the pleat seam.

The lower pleat has been "choked."  I took the pleat, pinched the lower end like a pinch pleat and hand sewed the other end of the choker so the choker holds the pinch.











To make the upper part of the goblet hold its rounded shape, I cut a piece of buckram about 4" long, rolled it into a tube, and inserted it in the top.  In this picture you can see a panel of completed goblets with the buckram giving them shape.

 Last but not last are the standard drapery pins behind each goblet and on the ends.

 To transport these panels with minimal wrinkling, I folded them lengthwise several times and rolled them up.  To keep the goblets from being flattened, I held off on the buckram tubes and inserted them just before hanging.

 A set of panels hung in the living room.

 My client wants the drapes to be just off the floor.  We hung these a little high so that when they stretch out hopefully they will be just right.  If not, I'll move the rods up or down or adjust the drapery pins, as needed.

To close in the outside edges of the drape, I put screw eyes in the wall and hooked through them the drapery pins at the end of the panels.

  In the dining room.

Closed.  We are using 60" clear batons to aid opening and closing the drapes.  The batons are attached to the center-most ring of each panel.

Besides making the drapes feel luxurious, there is an additional benefit to the interlining:  It adds insulation to the windows.  My client plans to keep the drapes open most of the time, but in the winter may want to consider closing them at night to keep out the cold air.

Well, goodbye beige striped fabric!  It's been nice knowing you for these few weeks, but time to move on to a different project!